Vintage Engagement Rings: Guide to Four Eras - Gem Society (2024)

What, exactly, does "vintage" mean?

A soon-to-be-engaged friend once asked me this while he was trying to choose a ring. Whether the love of your life wants a vintage engagement ring or you're just "window shopping," don't worry. The explanation is actually very simple.

In this article, you'll learn what makes a ring "vintage" and the different styles and design elements vintage engagement rings might have. Then, we'll give you some examples of modern yet vintage-inspired designs as well as some authentic vintage rings.

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What Makes an Engagement Ring "Vintage"?

"Vintage" refers to anything at least 20 years old, while "antique" refers to anything at least 100 years old. When it comes to engagement rings, "vintage" usually signifies the ring's style rather than its age.In general, if you're looking for a vintage engagement ring, you're really looking for a modern, vintage-style engagement ring setting.

If you're visualizing a simple engagement ring, you're most likely looking for a design from the "Retro Era" (1940-1960). However, most other vintage designs tend to be more ornate.

If your spouse-to-be frequents second-hand shops, they might prefer an older ring to a vintage-inspired modern one. Check out antique shops and ask family members for any heirloom rings you could have. If you're going this route, read our article on antique engagement rings.

Eras and Inspiration for Vintage Engagement Rings

Aside from age, there's not much to dictate style for vintage engagement rings. Technically, even relatively modern rings from the 1990s can be considered "vintage." However, we'll discuss four eras that modern vintage styles frequently emulate. See what catches your eye.

Victorian Era (1835-1900)

In the Victorian Era, engagement rings vary widely in designs and materials. (In fact, Victorian jewelry can be subdivided into early, middle, and late period styles). However, Victorian rings were generally yellow or rose gold and often included diamonds. Rows, halos, and clusters of diamonds became popular during this era.So, in some ways, a yellow gold double-halo ring could be an example of a Victorian-inspired vintage engagement ring.

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Popular Colors

Since blue was the eponymous Queen Victoria's favorite color, turquoise and blue enamel appeared often in jewelry from this period. Pearls were also featured frequently. Since perliculture hadn't been perfected yet, pearls in jewelry from this era were natural, and small seed pearls were more common than larger ones. Other white gemstones like moonstone and opal were also popular.

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Diamond Cuts

Although large diamonds were uncommon at this time, consumers began to wear diamond solitaires. However, most diamonds were old mine cuts, old European cuts, step cuts, or rose cuts, since modern diamond cuts like the round brilliant hadn't been invented yet

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Victorian Motifs

Popular Victorian motifs included bows, hearts, birds, and snakes. Navette or marquise shapes were also popular, either as a gemstone shape or in the overall design. In addition, the bypass setting was popular during this period (another common choice for modern styles as well).

Edwardian Era (1900-1920)

If you're into intricate, lacy designs, you'll love jewelry from theEdwardian Era.

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Rings from this period were generally platinum and included intricate metalwork called filigreein designs featuring scrolling, ribbons, and vines. Floral motifs were also popular.

Although diamonds and pearls continued to be popular, colored gemstones appeared in jewelry more frequently. Old mine cuts, old European cuts, and rose cuts were the most common cuts for diamonds in this period.

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Art Deco Era (1920-1940)

In contrast to the lacy lightness of Edwardian styles, Art Deco was all about bold geometry and repeating patterns. Instead of curvy, flowing filigree, Art Deco rings often included metalwork with repeating, sharp angles and tiny beads called milgrain. This style has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent years.

  • The octagon halo, milgrain, and step-cut diamonds in the band are elements of Art Deco style. Check out this ring. © James Allen. Used with permission.

  • Bold, open, geometric design with lots of color makes this Art Deco ring stand out. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

  • This ring also incorporates geometric elements. The asscher-cut diamond is another popular choice for an Art Deco vintage engagement ring. Take a look at the video. © James Allen. Used with permission.

  • Another example of open design, the repeating geometry in this topaz engagement ring is certainly Art Deco. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    Step-cut diamonds like emerald and asscher cuts became fashionable, and colored gemstones, especially rubies, sapphires, and emeralds, were especially popular.

    However, during the Great Depression, many consumers couldn't afford these expensive gemstones, so they opted for more affordable alternatives instead, including amethyst, citrine, garnet, and glass.

    Retro Era (1940-1960)

    Prior to World War II, few engagement rings featured a center diamond. However, after the highly successful De Beers diamond marketing campaign, which began in the 1940s, engagement rings almost exclusively featured diamonds.

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    Unlike earlier rings, engagement rings from this "Retro Era" featured simpler designs. Solitaire rings and baguette side stones were quite popular, and the typical size of the center stone grew larger once the Depression ended.

    Since the non-military use of platinum was banned during World War II,yellow and rose gold became the metals of choice for engagement rings in the United States during this period. Many rings from this era were two-toned, with both yellow gold and white gold in the design.

    A modern round brilliant diamond in a simple gold design might just describe your grandmother's engagement ring, and this nostalgia makes these rings popular today.

    Engagement Rings from Recent Decades

    In the 1960s, Jacqueline Kennedy's two-stone diamond and emerald engagement ring brought colored gemstones back into fashion. Art Deco styles were also popular.

    In the late 1970s, disco styles were bold and large. Rings from this decade also featured geometric designs.

    In the 1980s, Princess Diana's famous sunburst halo sapphire engagement ring inspired a wave of imitations. Colored gemstones and pear shapes were popular.

    The 1990s are the most recent decade that can be considered "vintage." Designs were bold and minimalistic, and marquise-cut diamonds were especially popular.

    Vintage Engagement Ring Designs

    Vintage engagement rings often incorporate aspects of styles from multiple eras, blending them into something new. Check out these rings that combine elements of Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco design.

    • In this vintage engagement ring, the metals appear like ribbons forming a heart shape, elements of Victorian or Edwardian jewelry. However, using two-tone metals and a relatively small, minimalistic design evokes the Retro Era. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • Using a double halo around a marquise-shaped ruby is a clear indication of Victorian inspiration. However, the chevron shapes on the side give this ring an Art Deco element. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • This pearl engagement ring features Edwardian-style floral filigree, Victorian-inspired halo, and Art Deco geometric patterns to the side. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

    • With broad, open design and plenty of milgrain, this ring is clearly Art Deco-inspired. However, the marquise-shaped emerald is a nod to Victorian style. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      Some vintage-inspired engagement rings incorporate modern design aspects, too. Take a look at how these rings blend the old with the new.

      • Although the strong angles and geometry might make you think Art Deco or the 1970s, the small size is part of a recent minimalistic trend. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      • While the chevrons and geometric details are completely Art Deco, the asymmetry in the octagon halo is a modern design element. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

      • While the bypass ring became popular in the Victorian Era, square-shaped stones were not widespread until the 1970s. © CustomMade. Used with permission.

        Not Sure What Kind of Ring to Get?

        If you're planning a surprise proposal and you're not sure what kind of ring to get, start by checking with friends and family. Pinterest and Instagram are always good places to look for ideas.

        You can also start by asking yourself some basic style questions to help narrow your search. For example, does your intended prefer nature-inspired designs or geometric patterns? Lots of diamonds in elaborate settings or fewer stones in simpler styles?

        Where Should I Shop for a Vintage Engagement Ring?

        If you're buying online, James Allen has a great selection of beautiful vintage engagement rings. Plus, they're the best place online to shop for a center diamond. So, if you want a diamond engagement ring, you'll be able to find the stone that's perfect for you.

        However, even if you're picking from a few dozen vintage engagement rings, you still might not find that perfect one. If you're looking for a truly unique vintage-style engagement ring, chooseCustomMade. Their experts will help you create the perfect ring, even if you're not quite sure what you want yet.

        Vintage Engagement Rings: Guide to Four Eras - Gem Society (2024)

        FAQs

        How do you date a vintage engagement ring? ›

        Hallmarks and Maker's Marks: One of the primary indicators of a jewelry piece's age is the presence of hallmarks and maker's marks. These marks are often stamped on the jewelry itself and provide valuable information about its origin and date of creation.

        Do vintage engagement rings keep their value? ›

        Antique engagement rings hold their value very well if kept in good condition.

        Why are vintage engagement rings so cheap? ›

        Vintage engagement rings may be several decades old, yet may not meet industry standards that typically define antique pieces as those at least 100 years old. Because vintage rings fall outside this age category, they may often be priced more affordably due to this distinction in their classification.

        What is considered a vintage engagement ring? ›

        "Vintage" refers to anything at least 20 years old, while "antique" refers to anything at least 100 years old. When it comes to engagement rings, "vintage" usually signifies the ring's style rather than its age.

        How do I know if my vintage jewelry is valuable? ›

        We recommend taking the piece to a jeweler to be tested. They will have professional tests that will determine whether your jewelry is real as well as the purity of the metal itself. A certified appraiser will be able to provide the value of the piece as well.

        How do I know if my old ring is valuable? ›

        The best way is to take it to a jeweller to be appraised. If you don't want to do that, you can look on the inside of the ring. If it is gold, look for 10k, 14k, 18k or another num with a k to be stamped inside. This will tell how pure the gold is.

        Is a vintage engagement ring a good idea? ›

        If you are looking for a ring that offers something a little different, a unique ring that will hold the test of time, many brides opt for an antique engagement ring. These rings are typically less expensive, often have superior craftsmanship and add a unique charm and story to your engagement.

        How much have diamonds appreciated in 10 years per carat? ›

        Data shows the prices of diamonds over the past ten years have increased by approximately 32-33%, giving it an average of 4% every year.

        Why buy a vintage engagement ring? ›

        Because they were hand-cut, old cut diamonds and gemstones have a unique look that is hard to find in machine-cut stones. Each diamond and gemstone are cut by hand, so each one is unique. This results in a more interesting personality and character.

        What is the old rule for engagement ring price? ›

        One of the most infamous wedding etiquette rules revolves around how many months' salary one should spend on the engagement ring. It's known as the "three months' salary" rule, and it implies that a buyer should put three months of their salary toward a sparkler for their future spouse.

        Are older diamonds more valuable? ›

        Old diamonds can be exceptionally rare and unique, making them valuable to collectors and enthusiasts. However, new diamonds offer modern precision and are easily assessed for quality, and lab-grown diamonds are considered the most ethical and environmentally friendly choice, making them worth more to some.

        What is the difference between vintage and antique ring? ›

        What is the difference between vintage, estate and antique engagement rings? An antique engagement ring is over 50 years old - made before the 1970s. An estate engagement ring is simply pre-owned and could have been bought as recently as last year. A vintage engagement ring doesn't have a clearly defined meaning.

        What is the golden rule for engagement rings? ›

        The wedding band traditionally goes on the left-hand ring finger first, nearest the heart, with the engagement ring stacking on top. Again, this practice is not law, and the rings can be arranged in any way that is most comfortable and aesthetically pleasing to you, including wearing the rings on separate fingers.

        How do you tell what era a ring is? ›

        Hallmarks are a good way of identifying the age of the jewelry and also the purity of gold. Many of the hallmarks are organized by time period with some covering a particular jewelry era only.

        What kind of engagement ring is timeless? ›

        Solitaire engagement rings are a timeless classic that will never go out of style.

        Is there a way to tell how old a ring is? ›

        Date Marks: In some countries, specific symbols or codes were used to indicate the year the jewelry was made. These date marks can be helpful in dating the piece more accurately.

        How old is a vintage ring? ›

        Most people refer to 'vintage' jewellery as pieces that are between 50 and 100 years old. Certain eras with distinct styles may be referred to as vintage even if the jewellery from that time isn't yet fifty years old. For example, jewellery from the 1980s has mass appeal due to the recent style renaissance of that era.

        Are antique rings stamped? ›

        A hallmark is a small stamp, branded into a piece of jewellery to tell us more about its beginnings. The concept of marking jewellery in this way can be dated back thousands of years, so it's not unusual for an antique ring to bear hallmarks that provide valuable information about its age, origin and quality.

        How can you tell if a vintage diamond ring is real? ›

        EXAMINE THE RING'S GEMSTONES. The gemstones of a ring can be a great indication of its vintage authenticity. The quality, cut, shape, and wear of the stones can all help verify its age. Because of changes in how diamonds have been valued, older stones may have warmer color tones than modern gems.

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